Patrick HiteStaunton News Leader
WAYNESBORO —William Isabelle took a break late Wednesday afternoon, sitting down to sample some banana pudding. He hasn't taken many breaks, and certainly not long ones, in recent days as he and his staff work to open the Smokehouse Cafe in Waynesboro.
Located at 325 E. Main St., the former location of The Barn Restaurant and, before that, Tastee Freez, the Smokehouse Cafe is a barbecue and soul food fusion eatery owned by Isabelle and Curtis Wright. It will open to the public Thursday, April 20, at 11 a.m. for pick-up orders only. Kids under 10 will get free burgers and hotdogs Thursday on opening day.
Eventually there will be indoor seating and delivery, but Isabelle doesn't have a timeline on either of those just yet. He wants to hold a big grand opening, unveiling signage, soon but for now he's wants more of a soft opening to make sure everything runs smoothly.
Isabelle said their barbecue will be Texas style, which means smoked, seasoned and no sauce.
"I really am excited," Isabelle said. "This has been a long time coming."
The menu is slimmed down for the opening, but Isabelle expects that to expand in the coming months. For now, the Smokehouse Cafe will offer pulled pork and brisket, either by the pound or as a sandwich. There will be pork ribs, half or full; turkey breast sandwich and southern fried fish with buttermilk batter.
The southern-style sides will include macaroni and cheese, sweet potato mash, collard greens, baked beans and coleslaw. Platters will include either two or three meats with the option of adding one or two sides.
"Everything here is homemade," Isabelle said. "Whatever you see on our menu, every day our guys are perfecting it, they're working it. Everything is from scratch. This is what you would call a from-scratch kitchen."
The plan is to be open Wednesdays through Sundays 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. It will be closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The staff has been smoking meats since Monday to prepare for the opening.
Isabelle plans to add specials to the menu. He would eventually like to add smash burgers, chicken and waffles, shrimp and grits, soul rolls, egg rolls and more.
"Just be on the lookout for everything, different things to come," he said.
There's also the Dirt Bag, a dish that includes baked beans, tater tots, macaroni and cheese, either brisket or pulled pork, choice of sauce and garnished with coleslaw.
The Dirt Bag is named in honor of one of Isabelle's childhood friends in Charlottesville who was killed by gun violence. Eldridge Smith — father of four, former Charlottesville basketball standout and member of an organization working to stop gun violence called Brothers United to Cease the Killing (B.U.C.K.) — was shot and killed Jan. 28.
"One of his missions for me was he wanted me to get into the restaurant business," Isabelle said. "So that's part of my mission."
Isabelle plans to donate some of the proceeds from sales of The Dirt Bag to Smith's family.
Isabelle and a friend from high school ran a catering business in Charlottesville for several years. The pandemic hurt the business, but now Isabelle is ready to get back in the food game with another friend, Wright. Paul Myers is the head of the kitchen.
Isabelle said the location is great on the east end of Waynesboro. There's not a lot of other food options in the area and he thinks The Smokehouse Cafe is a perfect fit.
"It's for the inner city of Waynesboro," Isabelle said. "It's for the urban community of Waynesboro. And we have purpose."
Isabelle wants to give back to the community also, including working with the Boys and Girls Club. He wants to show youth in the area that there are other outlets besides sports for their talents. He believes all of his staff are talented in the kitchen this the new restaurant will give them a stage on which to shine.
"If you were to ask me my elevator pitch," Isabelle said. "I would say this is our take on grandmom's Sunday dinner."
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—Patrick Hite is a reporter at The News Leader. Story ideas and tips always welcome. Contact Patrick (he/him/his) atphite@newsleader.comand follow himon Twitter@Patrick_Hite. Subscribe to usatnewsleader.com.
